The Ancient Origins of Divided Dining
Long before the era of round tables and shared dishes, ancient Chinese dining culture followed a strict system of divided meals, known as fencanzhi (分餐制). This practice traces its roots to primitive societies, where scarce food resources necessitated equal distribution to ensure communal survival. Even as agricultural advancements made food more abundant, the tradition persisted, evolving into a formalized ritual during the Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BCE).
For the aristocracy, dining was a highly ceremonial affair. Guests knelt on mats (yanxi 筵席) before low individual tables called an (案), each set with identical portions of food. Any perceived inequality in portion size could spark grave offense—a reflection of the deep cultural emphasis on fairness and face (mianzi 面子). A famous account from Records of the Grand Historian illustrates this: When a guest at Lord Mengchang’s banquet mistakenly believed his meal was smaller, the host proved their equality by presenting his own portion. The humiliated guest, unable to bear the shame, took his own life. Such anecdotes reveal how dining rituals were intertwined with honor and social hierarchy.
The Role of Seating Etiquette in Divided Dining
The persistence of divided meals was also shaped by ancient seating customs. Before the Northern and Southern Dynasties (420–589 CE), chairs were nonexistent in China. People knelt on mats or low platforms (ta 榻), maintaining an upright posture known as zhenjin guizuo (正襟跪坐)—knees together, back straight, and legs tucked beneath. Casual postures like jiju (箕踞), sitting with legs splayed, were deemed vulgar and disrespectful.
This strict etiquette had practical origins: Early clothing lacked closed-seam trousers, making modest posture essential to avoid exposure. The philosopher Mencius nearly divorced his wife over her improper sitting, underscoring the era’s rigid norms. Kneeling also limited mobility, making individual tables a necessity—diners could only reach the food directly before them.
Cultural Shifts: Chairs, Trousers, and the Decline of Kneeling
A seismic shift began with the influence of nomadic “Hu” cultures during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. These groups introduced two innovations that revolutionized Chinese life:
1. The “Hu Chair” (胡床): A portable stool (later evolving into chairs) that allowed sitting with legs dangling—far more comfortable than kneeling.
2. Closed-Seam Trousers: Designed for horseback riding, these garments eliminated the need for modest kneeling postures.
Conservative scholars initially resisted these changes. In the Liu Song Dynasty (420–479 CE), debates erupted over Buddhist monks’ “improper” cross-legged dining, framed as a threat to traditional values. Yet, comfort ultimately prevailed. By the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE), chairs and relaxed postures became widespread, paving the way for communal dining.
The Tang-Song Transition: Birth of Communal Meals
Artistic evidence captures this transformation. Murals from the Tang Dynasty’s Wei family tombs depict diners clustered around elongated benches, some cross-legged, others with legs下垂—a far cry from the rigid kneeling of earlier eras. The Night Revels of Han Xizai (五代十国) shows a mix of old and new: some guests at individual tables, others sharing surfaces.
By the Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE), tables and chairs reached modern heights, and shared meals became the norm. Along the River During Qingming Festival (清明上河图) portrays bustling eateries where patrons gather around circular tables, mirroring today’s dining scenes.
Legacy and Modern Reflections
The shift from divided to communal dining reflects broader societal changes:
– Cultural Fusion: Hu and Han traditions merged, reshaping daily life.
– Confucian Values: Communal meals embodied harmony (he 和) and unity (tong 同).
– Enduring Customs: The round table remains a symbol of familial and social bonding in Chinese culture.
Ironically, recent health trends have revived interest in divided dining—a return to antiquity’s practices for modern reasons. This cyclical evolution underscores how dining rituals are never just about food, but the ever-changing tapestry of human connection.
From Lord Mengchang’s fraught banquets to today’s lively family dinners, the history of Chinese dining is a story of adaptation, pride, and the timeless pursuit of togetherness.