A Portrait Artist’s Unique Perspective
The imperial court of late Qing China comes alive through the eyes of an unnamed Western portrait artist granted unprecedented access to Empress Dowager Cixi’s inner circle. Their daily routine involved morning and afternoon painting sessions filled with unexpected challenges – curious eunuchs and ladies-in-waiting constantly peering over their shoulder, while their imperial subject proved delightfully unpredictable. Cixi would shift positions unexpectedly, engage in cheerful conversation, and treat the formal portrait sittings more as social occasions than solemn artistic endeavors. This forced the artist to complete much work during private hours, carefully touching up paintings that couldn’t be properly focused on during official sessions.
The Dual Nature of the Dragon Lady
Beyond ceremonial robes and state affairs, the artist discovered a surprisingly vivacious personality. Cixi’s laughter rang with youthful clarity that belied her age, her animated expressions during informal moments contrasting sharply with her stern imperial demeanor. The Dowager Empress displayed thoughtful consideration for the artist’s wellbeing, frequently insisting on breaks and personally inviting them to enjoy the splendors of the Summer Palace. Yet these kindnesses carried an undercurrent of unease – the artist remained acutely aware of the precarious nature of royal favor in a court where today’s honored guest could become tomorrow’s prisoner.
Canine Companions: The Imperial Dog Culture
The Forbidden City housed an elaborate canine hierarchy that mirrored its human counterpart. Cixi maintained dozens of prized dogs, with two favorites standing above the rest: an exceptionally trained Skye terrier that performed remarkable tricks on command, and a golden Pekingese named “Hailong” (Sea Dragon). The Empress took great pride in their Chinese pedigrees, expressing particular disdain for European breeding practices that created “toy” dogs sustained on sweets and wine rather than proper nutrition.
Imperial dogs enjoyed luxuries surpassing those of most Qing subjects:
– Custom-made jackets lined with soft leather
– Meals prepared by palace chefs (approved personally by Cixi)
– Miniature palace-style kennels with jade tiles and brocade cushions
– A staff of four eunuchs per dog who followed rather than led during walks
The Delicate Dance of Imperial Favor
The artist’s initial misstep with the imperial pets reveals much about court dynamics. When the dogs spontaneously warmed to the foreign visitor, Cixi’s fleeting expression of displeasure served as a masterclass in unspoken protocol. The subsequent “dog appreciation” session days later demonstrated the Dowager’s self-awareness and desire to make amends – though conducted with imperial prerogative intact. This subtle negotiation of favor and face would characterize much of the artist’s stay.
Gift of the Golden Amber
The relationship reached its warmest moment when Cixi presented the artist with a particolored Pekingese they had admired. The naming ceremony – “Golden Amber” receiving imperial approval – became a rare moment of shared joy between monarch and foreigner. The dog’s immediate loyalty (ignoring all other suitors to stay by the artist’s side) seemed to please Cixi immensely, perhaps seeing in its devotion a reflection of the devotion she expected from her own court.
The Canine Courtiers
Beyond mere pets, the imperial dogs functioned as:
– Status symbols (their treatment reflecting Cixi’s absolute power)
– Political barometers (courtiers breeding dogs to curry favor)
– Cultural markers (their Chinese purity asserting national identity against Western influence)
The brief flourishing of a palace-wide dog breeding craze – quickly abandoned when it failed to attract Cixi’s notice – perfectly illustrates how imperial whims could redirect courtiers’ energies overnight.
Legacy of Intimacy and Power
These vignettes reveal the human dimensions behind the historical titan. Cixi’s delight in her dogs’ tricks, her irritation at their affection for others, and her genuine pleasure in gifting Golden Amber show a ruler who, while formidable, remained emotionally complex. The artist’s account preserves a vanishing world where absolute power coexisted with very personal joys and jealousies – all witnessed through the unlikely lens of imperial canine culture.
The Forbidden City’s dogs ultimately served as four-legged diplomats, bridging cultural divides when their human counterparts struggled. In their wagging tails and performed tricks, we see not just pets, but living symbols of a court balancing tradition and change, isolation and engagement, right up to the dynasty’s final years.