If you’ve ever visited Hangzhou, chances are you’ve been tempted to try the famous West Lake Vinegar Fish (Xihu Cu Yu). This dish, often praised in Chinese literature and culinary history, holds the status of a national banquet delicacy. Yet, for many first-time diners, their reaction after the first bite can be summed up in one meme-worthy phrase: “West Lake is West Lake, vinegar is vinegar, and fish is fish.”

So why is this dish so famous? Why did it earn praise from scholars of the Republic of China era and top the 1956 Hangzhou cuisine rankings? And more importantly, is it truly delicious, or is its reputation just a historical accident?

A Dish with Confusing Origins

Interestingly, West Lake Vinegar Fish may not have originated in Hangzhou at all! Some food historians trace its roots back to the Song Dynasty, particularly to a dish called Song Sao Fish Soup (宋嫂鱼羹). According to records in Wulin Old Stories (《武林旧事》), a woman known as Song Wu Sao fled to Hangzhou from the former capital, Kaifeng, bringing her northern-style fish preparation methods with her. Her fish soup became popular after Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty personally tasted and praised it.

Meanwhile, in Kaifeng today, you can still find a dish called Li Yu Bei Mian (鲤鱼焙面), originally known as Sweet and Sour Soft-Fried Fish (糖醋软熘鱼), which is considered a cousin of West Lake Vinegar Fish. Unlike its Hangzhou counterpart, Li Yu Bei Mian features a deep-fried yellow river carp, covered in a sweet and sour glaze, and topped with crispy fried noodles—an elaborate and visually stunning dish. Despite being a famous dish in Henan cuisine, it rarely receives the same level of criticism as West Lake Vinegar Fish.

Another version of the dish’s origin comes from Hangzhou folklore, where it was known as Uncle and Sister-in-Law’s Hidden Treasure (叔嫂藏珍). This story tells of two siblings-in-law who were forced to separate due to a local tyrant’s oppression. Before parting, the sister-in-law cooked a vinegar-based fish dish for her young brother-in-law as a reminder of their family’s sorrow. When the young man later became an official, he reunited with his sister-in-law at a restaurant that served the very same dish, bringing their story full circle.

Regardless of its true origins, one thing is clear: historical branding and a good story played a major role in making West Lake Vinegar Fish famous.

From Imperial Banquets to Restaurant Menus

The dish evolved over time, with different names and preparations appearing in historical texts. In the Qing Dynasty, it was commonly known as Cuo Liu Fish (醋溜鱼), which translates to “vinegar-sautéed fish.” The famous 18th-century food writer Yuan Mei, in his book Suiyuan Shidan (《随园食单》), provided a recipe that closely resembles modern West Lake Vinegar Fish. However, he also lamented that the quality had declined in his time: “Now the sauce stinks, and the fish has turned bad.” Clearly, even in ancient China, this dish had its critics!

By the 20th century, the dish had taken on its final form. At the 1930 West Lake Exposition in Hangzhou, chefs standardized the recipe, opting for a whole fish instead of chopped fillets and refining the balance of flavors. It became the signature dish of Lou Wai Lou (楼外楼), a historic restaurant that still serves it today. Even Chiang Kai-shek was said to have dined on West Lake Vinegar Fish at least ten times.

Why Does It Taste So…Underwhelming?

Despite its rich history, many visitors today find the dish lacking. The main culprit? The fish itself. Traditional West Lake Vinegar Fish uses grass carp, a fish known for its muddy flavor. To counteract this, chefs in the past would “purify” the fish by keeping it in clean water for several days before cooking. This step is often skipped in modern restaurants, leading to an unpleasant earthy taste.

Another reason is the delicate balance of flavors. Authentic West Lake Vinegar Fish is meant to be subtly sweet and tangy, not overwhelmingly sour or cloyingly sweet. However, many restaurants either overdo the vinegar or sugar, resulting in an imbalanced dish.

Finally, the cooking technique itself plays a role. Unlike its deep-fried cousin from Henan, West Lake Vinegar Fish is poached, which means the texture is much softer—some might even say mushy. If not done correctly, the dish can feel lackluster compared to other famous Chinese fish dishes like Sichuan’s spicy boiled fish (水煮鱼) or Cantonese-style steamed fish (清蒸鱼).

West Lake Vinegar Fish in the Modern Era

With changing tastes and higher culinary expectations, fewer Hangzhou locals eat this dish regularly. Instead, it has become a meal for tourists and state banquets. While some top-tier restaurants still maintain its quality, many cheaper establishments serve a lackluster version, leaving first-time visitors puzzled about its reputation.

However, West Lake Vinegar Fish remains an important symbol of Hangzhou’s culinary history. It represents a blend of northern and southern cooking traditions, the power of storytelling in food marketing, and the evolution of Chinese cuisine over centuries. If nothing else, ordering it at a traditional Hangzhou restaurant gives diners a chance to taste history—just don’t be surprised if you end up preferring the other dishes on the menu!