When you think of ancient Chinese cuisine, you might picture exotic spices, rich broths, and savory meats. But what about vegetables? If you could travel back in time, you’d probably be in for quite the shock when seeing what the ancient Chinese considered a vegetable. Some of them might even make you cringe—these definitely aren’t the veggies you’d expect!

Let’s start with xīng cài (荇菜), a type of floating plant mentioned in the Book of Songs (Shijing), an ancient Chinese poetry anthology. Back then, xīng cài was seen as a fancy, high-end vegetable, though today it’s just the common floating leaf found in ponds. According to historical accounts, this vegetable was praised for its medicinal qualities—it was thought to relieve heat and act as a diuretic. So, when poets in the ancient world dreamed of a beautiful woman, they often likened her to xīng cài, possibly because the plant was rare and desirable, like the woman of their dreams. No wonder they didn’t want to miss out!

Fast forward to the Han Dynasty, where five specific vegetables became staples, known collectively as “the Five Vegetables” (wǔ cài 五菜). These were kui (葵), jiǔ (韭), huò (藿), xiè (薤), and cōng (葱). While modern-day visitors might recognize jiǔ (chives) and cōng (green onions), the others might leave you scratching your head. Kui was the most popular, and it refers to a type of winter amaranth that was used in soups. Huò and xiè—the former being a kind of turnip and the latter a wild garlic—were also common in ancient dishes. But don’t get too excited about xiè—it’s just regular old daikon radish, not quite the exotic treat it sounds like!

Ancient Chinese people also ate various types of cabbage, but back then, it was the small variety, unlike the large cabbages we’re familiar with today. Over time, cabbage evolved, and by the Ming and Qing Dynasties, crossbreeding produced the massive, crunchy cabbages we now know and love.

Now, here’s a fun fact: the majority of vegetables we eat today in China didn’t originate there—they came from foreign lands! After the Silk Road opened up, vegetables from the West began flooding into China. For instance, cucumbers (hú guā, 胡瓜) came from Iran, spinach arrived from Nepal, and eggplant was introduced from India. But it wasn’t until the Tang Dynasty that the vegetable scene really started to get interesting.

The real game-changer came in the Ming Dynasty. European explorers had begun opening new trade routes to the Americas, bringing with them crops like potatoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkins, and—here’s a big one—chilies. Yes, the iconic spicy peppers, which are now a must-have ingredient in Sichuan cuisine, entered China during this time, forever altering Chinese food culture.

The introduction of these “foreign” vegetables was so significant that we still see their influence in the language today. Vegetables with the character fān (番) in their names—like fān guā (番瓜, pumpkin) or fān tóu (番茄, tomato)—were imported during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, when “fān” was used to refer to foreign lands. Similarly, vegetables with hú (胡)—like hú guā (胡瓜, cucumber)—came during the Tang Dynasty, when “hú” referred to foreign regions to the west.

However, the most significant foreign crops in China’s history were corn (bāo mǐ, 苞米) and sweet potatoes (dì guā, 地瓜), which were introduced during the late Qing Dynasty. These crops were perfectly suited to China’s diverse landscapes, especially its less fertile regions. In the 18th century, during the reign of Emperor Qianlong, these crops became vital in alleviating food shortages as population pressure increased. With strong government incentives to cultivate corn and sweet potatoes, China’s population saw exponential growth, eventually reaching a peak of over 400 million by the end of the 19th century.

According to Professor Gong Qisheng from the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, between 1776 and 1910, 14.12% of China’s population growth was directly attributed to corn. Over the entire period from the 16th to the 20th century, corn, sweet potatoes, and potatoes contributed to over 55% of China’s food production increase. So, in a way, we can all thank these humble imports for feeding China’s booming population.

The Cultural Impact of Foreign Vegetables on Modern China

The story of foreign vegetables in China is more than just about food—it’s a reflection of how global trade, exploration, and cultural exchange shaped Chinese society. Today, when we enjoy a plate of sweet potatoes, tomatoes, or spicy chili peppers, we’re not just tasting history; we’re partaking in a legacy of cultural integration that spans centuries. In a modern world of instant access to foods from all corners of the globe, it’s easy to forget that many of these ingredients were once foreign imports that helped fuel China’s growth.

So next time you bite into a crunchy cucumber or enjoy a bowl of spicy noodles, take a moment to appreciate the rich history behind those humble vegetables. Who knew that something so simple could have such a profound impact on a nation?