The Spiritual Heart of Chinese Buddhism

Towering over Zhejiang province, Tiantai Mountain has stood for over a millennium as one of China’s most sacred religious centers, comparable in spiritual significance to Jerusalem, Mecca, or Varanasi. This majestic mountain range became the cradle of Chinese Buddhism, particularly known for its devotion to the Lotus Sutra, which formed the core of its teachings. The mountain’s importance in Buddhist history cannot be overstated – it served as the gateway through which the Pure Land School (originating from Egyptian influences) entered East Asia and subsequently spread throughout China and Japan.

During my long-awaited pilgrimage in May 1895, accompanied by Reverend Ernest Box of the London Missionary Society, I witnessed firsthand how most temples on Tiantai Mountain worshipped Amitabha Buddha, the central figure of Pure Land Buddhism. The mountain’s spiritual atmosphere was palpable, with monasteries dotting the landscape every three to four miles, their bells resonating through the misty peaks during morning ceremonies.

A Remarkable Traveling Companion

Our journey took an intriguing turn with the addition of a Manchu Christian named Mr. Tong from Beijing, whose extraordinary spiritual journey exemplified the complex religious landscape of late Qing China. Baptized by the Pope himself and confirmed by the Greek Orthodox Church, Tong had studied medicine with Presbyterian missionaries and trained as a catechist under Bishop Scott. His profound learning and steadfast devotion made him an invaluable companion, though his quixotic dream of unifying China’s Christian denominations under the Pope revealed the challenges of religious syncretism.

Tong’s presence highlighted the fascinating intersections between Eastern and Western religious traditions during this period of cultural exchange. His story also demonstrated how Chinese intellectuals were grappling with foreign belief systems while maintaining their cultural identity – a tension that would continue to shape China’s modernization efforts.

Folk Beliefs and Superstitious Practices

The mountain villages surrounding Tiantai revealed a rich tapestry of folk religion interwoven with Buddhist practices. In Jiali Town, I documented astonishing customs where shops sold miniature paper and silk replicas of houses and clothing for the deceased, crafted with remarkable precision. The streets presented scenes of vibrant religious activity:

– Shops displayed colorful Buddhist images (about 18 inches high) before which devotees knelt in special robes, chanting scriptures to rhythmic percussion
– Private homes hosted more intense ceremonies, particularly among women of the Wuwei Buddhist sect, who formed horseshoe formations to chant Amitabha sutras for the sick
– Local traditions favored these prayer rituals over medical treatment for illnesses

The reconstruction of a century-old memorial archway showcased another layer of folk belief. To ward off evil spirits during construction, rooftops within 200 yards displayed straw effigies ranging from 1 to 5 inches tall, armed with miniature weapons and surrounded by mythical beast statues. Taoist charms adorned doorways with phrases like “turn misfortune into blessing” stamped with official red seals.

These practices revealed a worldview where invisible spirits constantly interacted with the living – a perspective that actually facilitated missionary work by demonstrating the local population’s spiritual openness. The region’s silk production had also spawned unique linguistic taboos during silkworm seasons, where words like “death,” “tea,” and “oil” were replaced by euphemisms to avoid bad luck.

Hangzhou’s Buddhist Renaissance

Our five-day boat journey to Hangzhou revealed another dimension of Chinese Buddhism’s vitality. This former Southern Song capital (with a population of 2 million in 1130) housed countless temples, many recently rebuilt after Taiping Rebellion destruction. The city’s religious landscape included:

– The Amitabha Temple (Mituo Si), featuring a trinity of Amitabha, Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy), and Dashizhi (Great Power Arriver) statues
– An unexpected Buddhist book society store, selling texts that revealed temple populations numbering in the hundreds
– Lingyin Temple near West Lake, with its spectacular 500 gilded arhat statues (larger than life-size) and imperial effigies of Qianlong and Jiaqing emperors
– Haichao Temple in eastern Hangzhou, one of the city’s principal monasteries accommodating over 100 resident monks and 200 itinerant practitioners

The vibrant reconstruction efforts, supported by officials and gentry, demonstrated Buddhism’s enduring cultural importance despite periodic persecutions.

The Road to Tiantai: Shaoxing and Beyond

En route to Tiantai Mountain, we stopped in Shaoxing, renowned for two exports that shaped imperial China:

1. Legal secretaries (shiyes) who staffed every county magistrate’s office nationwide, trained at a specialized local academy
2. Undistilled rice wine (before Mongol-era distillation techniques) sold in ceramic jars across China

The city’s memorial arch for French officers who died defending against Taiping forces, and its efficient traveler services (where fixed-fee tickets eliminated bargaining), revealed fascinating aspects of late Qing society.

A tense encounter in Zhangjiabao village demonstrated growing anti-foreign sentiment, as locals taunted us with “foreign devil” shouts. My confrontation with authorities led to a public apology with firecrackers – a culturally appropriate resolution that prevented larger conflict.

China’s Colossal Buddha and Monastic Life

The journey’s artistic highlight was Xinchang County’s monumental seated Buddha, carved directly into a cliff face. At over 130 feet tall (with knees alone measuring 30 feet), it dwarfed Japan’s Kamakura Daibutsu. The abbot’s wisdom – that humanity’s greatest challenge was overcoming desire – echoed core Buddhist teachings while the temple’s emphasis on the Lotus Sutra reinforced Tiantai Mountain’s doctrinal heritage.

Upon reaching Tiantai’s monastic complex, we observed intricate morning ceremonies involving:

– Precise formations of monks facing east and west
– Five ritual stages alternating standing, kneeling, incense offerings, circumambulation (“running incense”), and final prostration
– Musical accompaniment from large bells, drums, wooden fish, triangles, and small hand drums
– Chanting that gradually accelerated from one to four syllables per second

The presence of young novices (some orphaned) highlighted monastic education’s social role, though some monks admitted struggling with scripture interpretation beyond rote memorization.

Hermits and Mountain Spirituality

Tiantai’s spiritual landscape extended beyond formal monasteries to include:

– Over 180 hermitages (many ruined) scattered across the mountains
– A Shanghai hermit who had vowed four years of seclusion in a hut with only a 15-inch food portal
– A 55-year-old Huating Temple abbot who combined profound wisdom with apparent nonchalance
– Multiple hermits chanting Diamond Sutra or living in seclusion with spouses (like one elderly tea-picking couple)

These ascetics represented Buddhism’s contemplative tradition, emerging only for alms or ceremonies. Their presence gave Tiantai an aura of spiritual intensity unmatched by more accessible pilgrimage sites.

Guoqing Temple and Guan Yu’s Birthday

At 810-foot elevation, Guoqing Temple mirrored Hangzhou’s Haichao Temple in grandeur, featuring:

– A triad of Sakyamuni, Bhaisajyaguru (Healing Buddha), and Amitabha statues
– 500 arhat images and a well-organized scripture library
– Massive kitchen cauldrons (one 7’5″ diameter historical artifact)
– Unique meditation hall arrangements with white-draped abbot’s chair

Our visit coincided with Guan Yu’s birthday celebrations, where hundreds of women (mostly 40-50 years old) participated in dream-seeking rituals. They slept in temples hoping for auspicious visions to interpret – a fascinating blend of folk religion and Buddhist practice.

Legacy of a Sacred Mountain

Tiantai Mountain’s significance extends far beyond its physical landscape. As the cradle of the Tiantai school of Buddhism and a gateway for Pure Land teachings, it shaped East Asian religious history. The mountain’s blend of:

– Formal monastic institutions
– Solitary ascetic traditions
– Folk religious practices
– Imperial patronage connections

Created a unique spiritual ecosystem that continues to influence Chinese Buddhism today. The “Great Prescription for Clearing the Heart” we found at a mountain inn perfectly encapsulated Tiantai’s enduring wisdom – a holistic remedy for human suffering combining moral virtues and spiritual insights that remains relevant in our modern age.

From its role in Buddhist textual transmission to its impact on Japanese Tendai Buddhism, Tiantai Mountain stands as a testament to China’s profound religious heritage and its continuing capacity to inspire spiritual seekers worldwide.