The seemingly simple act of changing hairstyles in 19th-century Japan was far more than a matter of personal grooming. It represented a profound cultural upheaval and a strategic move against entrenched conservative forces. The abolition of the traditional samurai hairstyle, known as the chonmage, was a pivotal moment in Japan’s rapid transformation from a feudal society into a modern state eager to embrace Western civilization. This article explores the historical context, key events, cultural implications, and lasting legacy of Japan’s hair reform during the Meiji Restoration.

The Symbolism of Hair in Edo Japan

For over two centuries, the samurai class dominated Japanese society, politics, and culture during the Edo period . One of the most visible markers of samurai identity was the chonmage hairstyle, characterized by a shaved crown and a small topknot tied at the back of the head. This distinctive style was not merely a fashion statement but a symbol deeply embedded in the social and ideological fabric of the time.

The origins of this traditional hairstyle can be traced back to Japan’s cultural ties with China’s Tang Dynasty. In 682 AD, Emperor Tenmu decreed that both men and women should bind their hair, a practice that evolved into the chonmage over centuries. By the Edo period, the hairstyle had become a rigid social norm, emblematic of honor, loyalty, and the samurai spirit. Adult men outside the criminal class were expected to wear the chonmage, dedicating considerable daily time—sometimes up to an hour—to maintaining it. To alter or abandon the hairstyle was to challenge the very essence of the social order.

The Encounter with Western Civilization: Culture Shock in Europe

Japan’s forced opening to the West in 1853 by Commodore Matthew Perry’s fleet initiated a period of intense cultural confrontation. Foreign visitors to Japan were baffled by the chonmage, often likening it to a “pig’s tail” due to its unusual appearance. In a fascinating twist, the term “pig’s tail” originally referred not to the Chinese queue hairstyle but to the Japanese topknot.

This cultural clash became even more pronounced when the first Japanese students were sent abroad to study in Europe in the early 1860s. An illustrative episode occurred in 1863 at a Dutch theater, where a group of young Japanese students appeared in Western suits and hats. However, when they removed their hats inside the theater—an expected courtesy—the audience reacted with laughter and ridicule. Their shaved crowns and tightly tied topknots looked bizarre to Western eyes, resembling miniature handguns perched atop their heads.

These students were among the first to challenge Japan’s sartorial traditions, but they did so under strict orders from the Tokugawa shogunate forbidding any alteration of their hair or clothing while abroad. Their adherence to this decree made them the subject of mockery in Europe and symbolized the tension between tradition and modernization that Japan grappled with during this transformative era.

The Tension Between Tradition and Modernization

Despite the ridicule they faced overseas, these young students secretly cut off their chonmage during their studies, signaling an early rejection of feudal customs. Upon their return to Japan four years later, however, they were forced to don artificial topknots to avoid punishment by the shogunate and the hostility of nationalist vigilantes who saw abandonment of traditional customs as betrayal.

The Meiji Restoration, which began in 1868, ushered in a new era of political and social reform aimed at dismantling the feudal order and modernizing Japan along Western lines. The slogan of “civilization and enlightenment” encapsulated the ambitious drive to discard outdated customs and embrace progress.

One of the most visible and controversial reforms was the “hair cutting and sword removal edict” issued on September 23, 1871. This decree officially permitted Japanese men to abandon the chonmage and their samurai swords, symbolically severing ties with the old social hierarchy. The order encouraged citizens to adopt Western-style short haircuts and clothing, which were seen as more hygienic, practical, and modern.

Resistance and Social Conflict

The hair reform was met with mixed reactions across Japan. Progressive thinkers, returnees from overseas, and merchants who regularly interacted with Westerners eagerly embraced the new styles. Short, loose haircuts became popular among young soldiers and students, reflecting their alignment with the new national ethos.

However, the chonmage was deeply cherished by the conservative samurai class and rural populations. For many, it was more than a hairstyle—it was the embodiment of Japanese identity and honor. Some resorted to hiding their shaved heads under hats, while others outright refused to comply. In certain regions, the reform sparked social unrest, including divorces and lawsuits over forced haircuts.

Among the fiercest opponents were former samurai, who viewed the chonmage as their “soul” and were willing to die rather than abandon it. This resistance highlighted the profound cultural rift between Japan’s feudal past and its modern future, illustrating how even personal appearance became a battleground for ideological conflict.

The Iwakura Mission: A Snapshot of Old and New Japan

A famous photograph from 1871 captures the tension between tradition and modernization. It shows four young men in Western suits with short hair standing confidently, while seated between them is Iwakura Tomomi, a high-ranking government official wearing a kimono, leather shoes, and still sporting a chonmage.

This image, known as the “Iwakura Mission,” encapsulates the transitional moment in Japanese history. The mission was Japan’s first large-scale diplomatic journey to the West, aiming to renegotiate unequal treaties and learn from industrialized nations. The presence of Iwakura with his traditional hairstyle amidst Westernized companions symbolizes the coexistence—and clash—of old and new Japan during the early Meiji period.

Cultural Impacts and Long-Term Legacy

The hair reform was more than a superficial change; it was a deliberate effort to break the stranglehold of conservative customs and pave the way for comprehensive social transformation. Abandoning the chonmage dismantled a visible marker of feudal hierarchy and opened the door for new ideas about individual identity, citizenship, and progress.

The reform also signaled Japan’s determination to be recognized as a modern nation on the global stage. By adopting Western dress and hairstyles, Japanese citizens projected an image of sophistication and equality to foreign powers, helping to renegotiate Japan’s position in international diplomacy.

Over time, the chonmage disappeared from everyday life, surviving only in traditional practices such as sumo wrestling, where it remains a cherished cultural symbol. The hair reform thus stands as a powerful example of how deeply ingrained customs can be challenged and transformed in the context of national modernization.

Conclusion: Hair as a Catalyst for Change

The story of Japan’s hair reform reveals how seemingly minor cultural practices can carry immense symbolic weight and influence the course of a nation’s history. The shift from the chonmage to Western-style haircuts was not simply a fashion trend but a calculated move to dismantle the social order, embrace new values, and propel Japan into the modern world.

This transformation exemplifies the complex interplay between tradition and innovation that defined the Meiji era. It reminds us that social reform often begins with subtle yet profound changes in everyday life—changes that ripple outward to reshape society as a whole. Japan’s hair reform remains a vivid testament to the power of cultural symbolism in driving historical change.