The Dawn of Chinese Attire: Huangdi’s Revolutionary Garments

The concept of national attire in China traces its origins to the legendary Yellow Emperor (Huangdi), a pivotal figure in early Chinese civilization. Before his reign, clothing was primitive—simple animal hides draped over the body, fastened with ropes. Huangdi introduced the revolutionary “upper garment, lower skirt” (上衣下裳) system, dividing clothing into two distinct parts: the yi (衣), a sleeved top, and the chang (裳), a skirt-like lower garment. This innovation not only improved functionality but also symbolized the transition from barbarism to civilization.

As recorded in ancient texts like the Shangshu Dazhuan, Huangdi’s reforms extended beyond practicality. He linked clothing to social hierarchy, using garments to distinguish nobility from commoners. The introduction of dragon motifs on rulers’ robes and ceremonial crowns (mian) reinforced authority, with adornments like dangling beads (liu) symbolizing moral integrity—”ears shielded from slander, eyes from temptation.”

Imperial Regalia: The Codification of Power

By the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, attire became a rigid marker of status. The mianfu (冕服), or ceremonial robes of emperors, featured intricate symbolism:
– Colors: Black and yellow represented cosmic harmony (heaven and earth).
– Embellishments: Twelve decorative motifs (e.g., sun, moon, stars) adorned the emperor’s robes, matching the twelve beads on his crown.
– Hierarchy: Nobility wore varying shades (e.g., crimson for kings, yellow-red for lords).

Qin Shi Huang disrupted tradition by favoring black, aligning with the Water Dynasty’s supposed conquest of the fire-themed Zhou. This shift even influenced neighboring Korean kingdoms. Later, the Tang Dynasty codified yellow as an imperial exclusive—usurping the color became tantamount to treason.

Cultural Identity and Political Statements

Clothing also reflected China’s philosophical ethos. Confucian ideals of propriety (li) were woven into fabric, as seen in the Zuo Zhuan’s declaration: “The grandeur of China lies in its rites; the beauty of its garments defines its brilliance.” Conversely, the nomadic “barbarians” were stereotyped by their “uncivilized” furs and loose robes.

The Ming Dynasty’s dragon robes and Qing’s Manchurian-inspired changpao (长袍) further hybridized tradition with foreign influences, yet Han identity persisted through underground fashions like the hanfu revival movements.

The 20th Century: Sun Yat-sen and the Birth of the Zhongshan Suit

The fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1912 necessitated a modern national attire. Sun Yat-sen, leader of the Republic of China, commissioned the Zhongshan suit (中山装), blending Eastern and Western elements. Designed by tailor Huang Longsheng, its features encoded republican ideals:
– Four pockets: Representing “propriety, justice, honesty, shame” (国之四维).
– Five buttons: Symbolizing the separation of powers and Confucian virtues.
– Three sleeve buttons: Denoting Sun’s Three Principles (nationalism, democracy, livelihood).

Like George Washington’s homespun inauguration suit, the Zhongshan suit projected austerity and self-reliance. It became the uniform of revolutionaries and later, Mao Zedong’s de facto leadership attire, bridging imperial legacy and communist modernity.

Legacy and Contemporary Resonance

Today, China’s sartorial history echoes in global fashion (e.g., cheongsams in Hollywood) and domestic movements. The hanfu revival, particularly among youth, reclaims pre-Qing aesthetics as cultural pride, while the Zhongshan suit remains a diplomatic staple.

From Huangdi’s foundational designs to Sun Yat-sen’s ideological embroidery, Chinese attire has never merely clothed bodies—it has armored identities, proclaimed philosophies, and stitched the fabric of a civilization.