A City Built on Layers of History

Xi’an, the ancient capital of multiple Chinese dynasties, is a city where the past and present collide—sometimes literally. A popular joke circulating online claims that the busiest department during Xi’an’s metro construction isn’t the engineering team but the cultural relics bureau. While humorous, this observation isn’t far from reality. Official reports reveal staggering numbers: Metro Line 2 uncovered 174 small-to-medium tombs, Line 4 revealed 36 more, and Line 5 stumbled upon the ruins of Feiqiu, potentially linked to the Qin-era warlord Zhang Han.

This phenomenon isn’t unique to subway projects. When the Xi’an North-to-Airport intercity railway opened in September 2019, its 90-degree sharp turn baffled commuters. Critics questioned why planners would choose such an inefficient route—until archaeologists pointed out the obvious: beneath the tracks lay the tombs of emperors, generals, and aristocrats spanning millennia.

The Railway Through Time

The airport line reads like a historical itinerary. Passing the Wei River, its stations—Qin Palace, Han New City, Changling, Baiqi Village, and Art City—are portals to different eras. The Changling station skirts the edge of the Western Han Dynasty’s imperial burial grounds, where Emperor Gaozu (Liu Bang), Empress Lü, and Consort Qi rest. Nearby Baiqi Village, named after the legendary Qin general Bai Qi (via phonetic wordplay), hosts the mausoleums of Emperor Yuan of Han and Emperor Ai of Han, their burial mounds still visible today.

Archaeological discoveries here have been relentless:
– 2014: 68 Warring States-era tombs unearthed near Art City, yielding 293 artifacts.
– 1990s: The Northern Wei noble Tuoba Hu’s tomb was excavated near Baiqi Village, complete with an epitaph detailing his lineage.
– 2019: The spotlight turned to a 41-meter-long Western Wei tomb near the railway’s bridge piers, belonging to one Lu Chou—a minor aristocrat with a grandiose epitaph but little historical impact.

Clash of Shovels and Bulldozers

The tension between progress and preservation plays out in dramatic fashion. Archaeologists like Zhang Yang and his team often race against construction crews, their delicate trowels no match for roaring excavators. Misunderstandings abound: locals scoff at the slow pace (“Why not just use machines?”), while workers grumble about delays. One incident saw Zhang angrily calling a project manager after a freshly marked excavation grid was bulldozed.

Yet collaboration is possible. When a Han-era tile was salvaged from under construction equipment, archaeologists and engineers reached a compromise—backed by media pressure and provincial officials. Such standoffs highlight a universal challenge: how to balance development with the duty to protect cultural heritage.

The Weight of a Name: Decoding Lu Chou’s Epitaph

The Western Wei tomb near Baiqi Village offered a masterclass in historical spin. Lu Chou’s epitaph, packed with titles like “Champion General” and “Carriage-Chasing Grand Marshal,” initially suggested a luminary. Closer inspection, aided by epigraphy expert Dr. Wang Qingwei, revealed a career of ceremonial posts with scant real influence. His grandfather, Qizhen, had governed provinces; his father served at a strategic northern garrison. By contrast, Lu’s achievements amounted to bureaucratic ornamentation—a reminder that ancient epitaphs, like modern résumés, often gild the truth.

Why This Matters Today

Xi’an’s archaeological juggling act reflects broader dilemmas:
– Urbanization vs. Heritage: As Chinese cities expand, subterranean history forces tough choices.
– Public Perception: Archaeology’s painstaking methods face scrutiny in an era obsessed with speed.
– Cultural Identity: Each unearthed tomb—whether a celebrated general’s or an obscure official’s—adds nuance to China’s collective memory.

The next time a Xi’an metro line detours unexpectedly, consider what might lie beneath: not just bones and artifacts, but stories waiting to recalibrate our understanding of the past. As one archaeologist quipped, “We’re not delaying the future—we’re ensuring it has roots.”

Image: Excavation of the Western Wei tomb near Baiqi Village (Photo: Zhang Yang Lizheng)