From Raw to Refined: The Evolution of “Southern Tower Buns”

In the bustling markets of Tang Dynasty China (618–907 CE), adventurous foodies could sample a peculiar delicacy called Nanlouzi (“Southern Tower Buns”). This street food involved thinly sliced raw mutton—rinsed of blood, seasoned with salt, ginger, and pepper—wrapped in raw dough and baked until the exterior turned golden. Diners consumed the steaming bread while the interior remained defiantly uncooked, creating a textural contrast that would unsettle most modern palates.

By the Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE), culinary sensibilities shifted. Cooks began steaming the mutton before encasing it in dough, ensuring fully cooked meat—a change reflecting broader Song-era advancements in food safety and gastronomic sophistication. This evolution mirrors the dynasty’s reputation for innovation, from agricultural techniques to urban food culture.

The Golden Age of Raw Fish: “Riverside Sashimi”

While Nanlouzi transformed, another raw dish thrived: Linshui Zhuo Kuai (“Riverside Sashimi”). Every spring, Kaifeng’s residents flocked to the Golden Ming Pool, armed with knives and seasonings. Freshly caught carp were swiftly filleted into translucent slices, dressed with citrusy ponzu-like sauces of vinegar and tangerine juice. Unlike today’s regional divides (where raw fish remains largely a southern tradition), Song-era sashimi transcended geography and class.

Historical heavyweights like Su Shi (苏轼) and Ouyang Xiu (欧阳修) were devotees, though not without consequences. Su Shi famously ignored his doctor’s warnings after excessive sashimi consumption led to severe conjunctivitis, quipping: “To eat insults my eyes, but to abstain insults my mouth—how can I betray either?” Even wartime didn’t deter enthusiasts: General Sun Chengyou (孙承祐) hauled live fish in water-filled crates during military campaigns for impromptu sashimi feasts.

Beyond Fish: The Bold World of Song-Era Raw Meat

The Song appetite for raw protein extended beyond aquatic fare. Shengzhu Rou (生猪肉), thin slices of pork briefly scalded in boiling water, was served chilled with dipping sauces—sometimes classic salt-and-pepper, sometimes shockingly paired with honey. Modern parallels persist in ethnic cuisines like the Brown people’s Hong Sheng (红生) in Xishuangbanna: a mix of raw pork loin, fresh blood, chili, and salt, echoing Tang-Song culinary audacity.

Dogs at War: The Siege of Xiangyang’s Controversial Cuisine

During the 1206 Siege of Xiangyang, military logistics birthed an unorthodox protein source. As Yuan Dynasty forces encircled the city, stray dogs—whose barks betrayed Song guerrilla raids—were systematically hunted. Commander Zhao Chun’s troops repurposed the animals into rations, turning a tactical nuisance into sustenance. This episode sparks modern ethical debates, yet historical context is crucial:

1. Survival vs. Sentiment: In siege warfare, pragmatism overrode dietary taboos.
2. Cultural Relativism: As historian Zhao Wanli noted, Song elites often scorned dog meat as “low-class,” foreshadowing later stigma.
3. Global Parallels: From European medieval siege diets to Inuit seal hunting, necessity shapes culinary boundaries.

The Eight Delicacies Reimagined: From Zhou Royalty to Song Street Food

Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BCE) aristocrats feasted on Ba Zhen (八珍), including Gan Liao: dog liver wrapped in its own caul fat, roasted to perfection. By the Song era, this dish evolved into Gan Qian (肝签)—now using pork or chicken liver, reflecting shifting tastes. The omission of dog ingredients underscores a cultural downgrading of canine cuisine, paralleling Europe’s medieval transition from peacock banquets to beef-centric feasts.

Legacy: Chopsticks, Class, and Cross-Cultural Bites

The Tang-Song culinary revolution left indelible marks:

– Techniques: Precursors to modern baozi (steamed buns) and shuan yangrou (hot pot).
– Cultural Exchange: Sashimi traditions possibly influenced Japanese namasu via Buddhist exchanges.
– Social Dynamics: Elite disdain for dog meat entrenched class-based dining hierarchies still visible today.

From risky raw feasts to siege-born innovation, these stories remind us that history is best savored—like a slice of Song-era sashimi—with bold curiosity and nuanced perspective.