The Fruits Missing from Song Dynasty Tables

When imagining the vibrant markets of the Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE), one might picture overflowing stalls of exotic fruits. Yet many modern staples were conspicuously absent. The “papaya” mentioned in the ancient Book of Songs was not the sweet, tropical fruit we know today, but rather the tart, rose-family Chinese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), primarily used in dried preserves or honeyed sweets. The modern papaya (Carica papaya) arrived from Mexico only in the 17th century.

Similarly, durian—now synonymous with Southeast Asian cuisine—was unknown until Ming Dynasty explorer Zheng He’s 15th-century voyages. His translator Ma Huan documented this “king of fruits” with horrified fascination, describing its “rotten beef” odor but praising its custard-like flesh. Yet despite thriving maritime trade, durian never became a Song-Ming import, likely due to its perishability and challenging aroma.

Even apples tell a migration tale. Song people knew only the small, white-fleshed “cotton apples” (Malus asiatica), unrelated to the crisp, red varieties introduced from the Americas during the Qing Dynasty. Watermelons, however, entered Song cuisine dramatically—brought back from Jurchen-controlled north China by diplomat Hong Hao in the 12th century, eventually spreading through Jiangnan’s fertile fields.

Spice Without Chili: Song Dynasty’s Pungent Palate

Centuries before Sichuan cuisine conquered global taste buds, Song diners relished málà (numbing-spicy) flavors—without a single chili pepper. The Columbian Exchange had yet to bring capsicums from the Americas, but resourceful cooks created heat through:

– Peppercorns: Imported via the Silk Road, these fueled the era’s “Sichuan meals” (chuānfàn).
– Mustard: Fermented mustard root appeared in Kaifeng’s night markets as làjiǎozi (spicy pickles).
– Wasabi precursors: The Wu Clan’s Culinary Records details a zesty “mustard melon” dish resembling modern wasabi cucumbers.

Emperor Taizong’s chancellor Su Yijian, a Sichuan native, epitomized this taste, declaring a pungent blend of ginger, garlic, and pepper “the ultimate delicacy”—proof that麻辣 cravings predate chilies by centuries.

Feast Like a Song Dynasty Hero: The Culture of Big Eaters

Literary and historical accounts reveal astonishing appetites. Water Margin’s warrior Wu Song routinely devoured “3-5 catties (1.5–2.5 kg) of meat” with “20–30 buns”—but even he paled next to real-life figures:

– Chancellor Zhang Qixian could consume 10 catties (6 kg) of pork in one sitting, sometimes raw like a “Han Dynasty Fan Kuai.”
– Southern Song Prime Minister Zhao Xiong impressed Emperor Xiaozong by eating 100 steamed buns after downing 10 liters of wine.
– An unnamed official out-ate Zhao Xiong himself, finishing 50 extra flatbreads before sighing, “My congenital hunger is finally satisfied!”

Yet these were exceptions. Most Song citizens ate modestly—two daily meals of ~250g rice plus snacks—comparable to modern intake when adjusted for fewer meals but greater physical labor.

Oral Hygiene: From Buddhist Twigs to Urban Toothpaste Shops

Song dental care blended Indian Buddhist practices with domestic innovation:

1. Monastic Origins: Following Vinaya rules, Tang-Song monks used willow twigs (“teeth wood”) or luxury yáxiāng toothpaste of ambergris and sandalwood.
2. Civilian Adaptations: By the 1100s, bamboo-handled “tooth scrubbers” (shuāyá) with horsetail bristles appeared. Hangzhou’s “Ling Family Toothbrush Shop” (recorded in Dream Pool Essays) catered to urbanites.
3. Folk Recipes: Budget-conscious households boiled willow bark into sticky paste, mixing it with ginger juice—a nod to Buddha’s preferred cleaning method.

This hygiene culture declined post-Song, leading to Qing-era Europeans mistakenly believing Chinese never brushed teeth—until archaeology rediscovered Song-era dental tools.

Legacy: How Song Tastes Shaped Modern China

The Song Dynasty’s culinary world—devoid of tomatoes, potatoes, or corn—relied on indigenous ingredients and Eurasian trade networks. Yet its gastronomic creativity laid foundations:

– Fermentation techniques for pickled mustard roots evolved into today’s zhàcài (Sichuan pickles).
– Early “Sichuan cuisine” established peppercorn-heavy profiles later enhanced by New World chilies.
– Commercial dining saw Hangzhou’s 24/7 eateries prefigure contemporary food streets.

From Wu Song’s legendary feasts to delicate monk-made toothpastes, the Song era reminds us that globalization transformed, but didn’t create, China’s rich food culture—it merely added new layers to an ancient, sophisticated palate.