A Global Phenomenon: Late Meals and Creative Solutions

From the sun-drenched plazas of Spain to the vibrant markets of Mexico, one cultural quirk unites these distant lands: remarkably late meal times. In Mexico, lunch rarely begins before 2 PM, while Spaniards consider 3 PM the earliest acceptable lunch hour. Dinners stretch into the night, often commencing at 9 PM or later. This shared temporal defiance of conventional eating schedules raises an intriguing question: how did these cultures develop strategies to bridge the hunger gap between meals?

The answers reveal fascinating parallels with culinary practices from 12th-century China’s Sung Dynasty, demonstrating how different civilizations independently arrived at similar solutions to universal human needs.

The Art of Anticipatory Eating: Tapas and “Dim Sum” Before Their Time

Mexican cuisine addresses the long wait between meals through elaborate breakfasts – arguably some of the world’s most substantial morning feasts. Spaniards, however, developed the now-world-famous tradition of tapas.

These “small plates” defy simple categorization. A tapa might be anything from delicate pastries to robust wild boar ribs, from pepper-stuffed game hens to citrus-marinated partridge stew. The common thread is their function as culinary bridges between main meals. This tradition bears striking resemblance to Sung Dynasty China’s “dim sum” culture (though the term itself emerged later).

During China’s Northern Sung period (960-1127) and in some Southern Sung (1127-1279) regions, people typically ate just two daily meals. The gap between morning and evening repasts was filled by “dim sum” – literally meaning “to touch the heart” (安抚胃口). These snacks ranged from humble rice porridge to lavish spreads of dozens of delicacies, mirroring the Spanish tapas’ spectrum from simple to extravagant.

The Great Bread Misconception: Wu Dalang’s Steamed Buns

A decade ago in Zhengzhou, China, “Wu Dalang Shaobing” shops sold thick, fragrant cakes marketed as the fictional character Wu Dalang’s signature product. This branding contains a historical inaccuracy worthy of scholarly correction.

Wu Dalang, from the classic novel Water Margin, actually sold “炊饼” (chui bing) – steamed buns, not baked flatbreads. The distinction matters:

– Preparation: Steamed vs. baked
– Texture: Single-layer softness vs. multi-layered crispness
– Shape: Dome-like vs. flat

Originally called “zheng bing” (steamed cakes), the name changed during Emperor Renzong’s reign (1022-1063) due to naming taboos – his personal name “Zhen” sounded too similar to “steam.” Practical considerations further confirm this: freshly baked goods couldn’t survive all-day hawking like Wu Dalang’s steamed buns could.

The Sung Dynasty Pantry: Surprising Abundance and Notable Absences

Sung Dynasty culinary records from Hangzhou (Xianchun Lin’an Zhi) and Fuzhou (Chunxi Sanshan Zhi) reveal remarkably diverse markets offering:

Vegetables: radishes, cabbage, eggplant, cucumber, various greens, legumes
Fruits: citrus, bananas, grapes, lychees, persimmons, stone fruits
Proteins: all major meats, poultry, game, and abundant seafood

Yet glaring omissions remind us of the Columbian Exchange yet to come. The Sung Chinese lacked:

– New World crops: potatoes, tomatoes, corn, peanuts, chili peppers
– Other late arrivals: carrots (despite the name), sunflowers, common beans

This creates amusing anachronisms in historical fiction. Jin Yong’s Legend of the Condor Heroes erroneously includes peanuts in a Southern Sung tavern scene – impossible before Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) trans-Pacific contact. Modern “Sung-style” peanut cakes similarly misrepresent history.

Sichuan cuisine (“Chuan fan” in Sung times) managed without chili peppers, relying instead on earlier imports like black pepper. The absence of these now-essential ingredients forces us to reconsider how dramatically global foodways transformed after 1492.

Culinary Continuity: Why Ancient Eating Habits Still Matter

These historical foodways persist in modern forms:

1. The tapas/dim sum tradition lives on in global small-plate dining trends
2. Naming conventions still confuse – many Chinese “bing” aren’t flat
3. The Columbian Exchange’s impact makes pre-1500 cuisine alien to modern palates

Understanding these culinary histories enriches our appreciation of:
– How cultures independently develop similar solutions
– The profound impact of global ingredient migration
– The importance of historical accuracy in food branding

Next time you enjoy late Spanish dinners or “historical” Chinese snacks, remember – you’re tasting layers of human ingenuity stretching back centuries. The universal need to “touch the heart” between meals connects us across time and continents in ways both surprising and delicious.