A Rainy Departure from Nanjing
On January 28, 1949—Lunar New Year’s Eve—a steady drizzle blanketed Nanjing as an unusual drama unfolded at Xiaguan Wharf. Under heavy guard, 1,700 oilcloth-covered crates had sat for days, their contents a mystery to locals. That afternoon, the Nationalist navy’s transport ship Kunlun arrived to collect them, but dockworkers refused to load. A labor strike had paralyzed operations.
After tense negotiations, workers agreed to load the cargo—only for chaos to erupt as Nationalist naval officers and their families stormed the ship, desperate to flee advancing Communist forces. Amid wailing children and frantic pleas, Admiral Kui Yongqing (桂永清) made a fateful decision: every cabin, mess hall, and even decks would store crates. When four last-minute boxes arrived—one containing a priceless jade screen—officers dismantled furniture to accommodate them.
Overloaded and unstable, the Kunlun finally departed with 972 crates, reaching Taiwan’s Keelung Port on February 22. Few passengers realized they’d shared their voyage with treasures from Beijing’s Forbidden City.
The First Exodus: Fleeing Japanese Invasion
This was neither the first nor the most perilous journey for China’s imperial collections. The crisis began in 1931 after Japan’s invasion of Manchuria. As war loomed over Beijing, fierce debates erupted about safeguarding the Palace Museum’s artifacts.
Some, like senior official Zhang Ji, advocated moving treasures to Xi’an. Museum director Yi Peiji pushed for Shanghai, over objections from assistant Wu Ying, who warned: “Once relics leave the palace gates, responsibility—and controversy—will follow.” Yi prevailed, and on February 5, 1933, under martial law, 19,557 crates began a secret midnight exodus from the Forbidden City.
Guarded by machine guns and cavalry, trains carried irreplaceable manuscripts, paintings, and the Complete Library of the Four Treasuries (Siku Quanshu). Director Yi’s fears materialized: he and Wu were later falsely accused of theft in the infamous “Palace Museum Theft Case,” driving Yi to an early grave.
Wartime Odyssey: Bombs, Bandits, and Miracles
By 1937, with Nanjing under threat, artifacts faced a second evacuation—this time in three grueling routes across war-torn China:
1. Southern Route: Nanjing → Guiyang → Anshun
2. Central Route: Nanjing → Chongqing → Leshan
3. Northern Route: Nanjing → Xi’an → Emei
Convoys dodged Japanese bombers,土匪 attacks, and treacherous mountain roads. Curator Na Zhiliang, after surviving bombings and capsized boats, marveled that not one piece was lost—a testament to what locals called “the spirit of ancient objects.”
Taiwan Bound: The 1948 Crisis
Post-war repatriation efforts stalled as civil war erupted. By late 1948, Nationalist defeats at Huaihai prompted a frantic third evacuation to Taiwan. Three shipments ensued:
– December 1948: 320 crates on the Zhongding transport
– January 1949: 1,680 crates including the Siku Quanshu and bronze masterpieces
– Final Shipment: The Kunlun’s 972 crates
Despite plans to strip Beijing’s palace, director Ma Heng deliberately stalled, saving northern collections. In total, 2,972 crates (25% of Nanjing’s holdings) reached Taiwan.
Legacy in Two Museums
Today, these treasures anchor Taipei’s National Palace Museum, showcasing:
– Bronzes: 2,382 pieces like the Mao Gong Ding
– Paintings: 943 Song-era works including Su Shi’s Cold Food Observance
– Ceramics: 17,934 items like the北宋 Ru ware lotus bowl
– Jades: The iconic Jadeite Cabbage
Left behind in Beijing—partly due to its 875kg weight—was the legendary Houmuwu Ding (后母戊鼎), now a centerpiece on the mainland.
A Divided Heritage
The artifacts’ 16-year, 10,000-mile journey reflects modern China’s turbulent history. While debates continue about reunification, both museums now collaborate on exhibitions, acknowledging their shared custodianship of a civilization’s memory. As the jade screen that barely made the Kunlun reminds us: these objects carry not just artistic brilliance, but the resilience of those who protected them against all odds.