From the Western Regions to Chinese Tables

Among the many agricultural imports that traveled the Silk Road, two humble legumes—peas and broad beans—played surprisingly significant roles in Chinese history. Both were initially called “hú dòu” (胡豆, “foreign beans”), reflecting their exotic origins. The pea (Pisum sativum) arrived first, mentioned as early as the Warring States period (475–221 BCE) in Guanzi as a gift from the northern “Rong” tribes. By the Ming dynasty, however, broad beans (Vicia faba) had usurped the “hú dòu” title, embodying a fascinating story of cultural adaptation.

These unassuming crops reveal much about China’s agricultural evolution, regional dietary habits, and even Buddhist art. Their journey—from Central Asian steppes to becoming staples in Sichuanese cuisine—demonstrates how globalization shaped China long before the modern era.

The Early Reign of Peas: A Hardy Staple from the Steppes

Peas entered Chinese cultivation remarkably early. The 3rd-century BCE text Guanzi references “rěn shū” (荏菽), later identified by Ming pharmacologist Li Shizhen as peas—a crop so associated with northern nomads that it earned the moniker “Rong beans.” By the Three Kingdoms period (220–280 CE), the name “wān dòu” (豌豆, “curved bean”) appeared in Guangya, describing the plant’s delicate tendrils.

Several factors propelled peas to prominence:
– Adaptability: Thriving in cold, arid northern climates where other crops failed
– Versatility: Consumed boiled or fried (Compendium of Materia Medica noted their culinary value)
– Industrial uses: Ground into fine powder for traditional bathing products (“bath beans”)
– Military significance: As high-protein fodder for warhorses

Today, China remains the world’s second-largest pea producer—a testament to this ancient crop’s enduring value.

The Broad Bean’s Slow Conquest

Broad beans followed a more circuitous path. Though Song dynasty texts like Taiping Yulan credited Zhang Qian’s 2nd-century BCE diplomatic missions with their introduction, cultivation remained limited for centuries. Northern Song poet Song Qi noted they were primarily garden crops, while Su Dongpo needed a Sichuanese friend to identify them from poetic descriptions.

Key milestones in their rise:
– Regional nicknames: Called “Buddha beans” (佛豆) in Yunnan, reflecting possible Buddhist transmission routes
– Literary breakthrough: Southern Song poet Yang Wanli’s impromptu ode to wine-paired broad beans cemented the name “cán dòu” (蚕豆, “silkworm bean”) for their pod resemblance
– Agricultural advantage: Early summer harvests helped bridge “green hunger” gaps before wheat ripened
– Economic role: Ming texts like Tiangong Kaiwu documented their use as affordable staple food for laborers

By the Ming dynasty, Sichuanese dialect had shifted “hú dòu” exclusively to broad beans—a linguistic takeover mirroring their agricultural dominance.

Culinary and Social Impacts

These legumes transformed Chinese foodways in distinct ways:

Peas
– Northern cuisine: Dried peas became winter protein sources
– Imperial kitchens: Qing records mention “emerald pea cakes” as seasonal delicacies
– Folk medicine: Believed to aid digestion and lactation

Broad Beans
– Sichuan revolution: Fermented into doubanjiang (chili bean paste), the backbone of regional flavors
– Laborer’s fuel: Chongqing porters relied on cheap, energy-dense boiled beans
– Famine relief: Featured in every major dynastic Disaster Preparedness Manual

A Qing poet captured broad beans’ unpretentious value: “Unloved wild blooms by the field / That never chase the spring’s perfume.”

The Sleeping Beauty of Buddhist Art: Water Lilies

Parallel to the bean story runs another Silk Road import—the water lily (often conflated with lotuses). Unlike native lotuses celebrated since the Zhou dynasty, water lilies arrived with Buddhism:

– Indian origins: Mogao Cave murals (5th century CE) show distinct water lily motifs absent in Han art
– Diurnal rhythm: Earned names like “noon-midnight flower” for opening/closing cycles
– Medicinal uses: Qing physicians treated childhood convulsions with water lily extracts

In classical gardens like the Summer Palace, water lilies created meditative spaces, while their symbolism evolved from Buddhist purity to broader auspicious meanings in Ming-Qing decorative arts.

Legacies That Endure

Today, these imports remain deeply woven into Chinese life:
– Language: Sichuan still calls broad beans “hú dòu,” preserving linguistic history
– Cuisine: From Peking pea flour snacks to Sichuan’s dandan noodles, these legumes define regional flavors
– Art: Water lily motifs grace everything from blue-white porcelain to modern silk designs

As globalization accelerates, the 2,000-year journey of these “foreign beans” reminds us that cultural exchange—whether through Silk Road caravans or monastic networks—has always been the seedbed of innovation. Their stories testify to China’s remarkable ability to adopt, adapt, and ultimately claim exogenous elements as quintessentially its own.