In the classic Chinese novel Water Margin, one of the key characters, Wu Dalang, is known for selling a type of food called “炊饼” (chuī bǐng). Many readers, however, mistakenly associate this with the modern “shaobing” (烧饼), a type of baked sesame-studded flatbread. Some even use Wu Dalang’s name to market this very product! But in reality, the “炊饼” Wu Dalang sold was far different from today’s shaobing. In fact, it had a fascinating historical origin that tells us a lot about ancient Chinese food traditions.

What Exactly Was Wu Dalang Selling?

To understand the true nature of Wu Dalang’s “炊饼,” we need to dive into the history of Chinese bread and cakes. Ancient Chinese cuisine has a long history with wheat-based foods, and various types of “cakes” (饼) were commonly eaten. During the Han Dynasty, one of the most popular types of flatbread was known as “胡饼” (hú bǐng), or “Hu Cake,” a sesame-covered flatbread. This cake is more akin to today’s “馕” (nán), a type of Central Asian bread, than to the popular shaobing.

Interestingly, “胡饼” was introduced to China from the western regions, likely brought by nomadic peoples from the Xiyu (Western Regions) around the 2nd century BCE. The Han Emperor Lingdi was so fond of it that he made it one of his favorite treats, showcasing just how fashionable this “imported food” became in the imperial court.

By the Tang Dynasty, Hu Cakes had become a street food staple. Famous poet Bai Juyi even praised them in a poem: “The sesame cake’s crispy skin and fragrant oil, fresh out of the oven.” It’s remarkable how food crosses cultures, influencing both the elite and the masses alike.

The Steamed and Baked World of Ancient Chinese Bread

Moving from Hu Cakes to another form of bread, we encounter the famous “蒸饼” (zhēng bǐng), or “steamed cakes.” These were made by steaming dough, a cooking method that has existed since the pre-Qin era. By the Song Dynasty, the term “蒸饼” was replaced with “炊饼” (chuī bǐng), meaning “cooked cakes” or “steamed cakes,” likely due to cultural norms surrounding respect for the emperor’s name.

So, to set the record straight: Wu Dalang’s “炊饼” was indeed a type of steamed bread, similar to the modern “mantou” (steamed bun) rather than the crispy, sesame-crusted shaobing.

But Wait—What About Mantou?

Now, you might be wondering, isn’t “mantou” the same as “steamed cakes”? Well, not quite. Ancient “mantou” was typically stuffed with filling, often meat, and resembles what we know today as buns. In fact, during the Southern Song Dynasty, records mention varieties of meat-stuffed mantou—lamb, fish, crab, and even sugar meat—much like today’s baozi (steamed buns).

Mantou’s historical origins are a bit murky. One legend ties its creation to the famous strategist Zhuge Liang. It’s said that during a military campaign in the southwest, Zhuge Liang ordered his soldiers to create these “man head” shaped buns as a substitute for human heads in a sacrificial ceremony. While this tale might be more myth than fact, it reflects the important role food played in ancient Chinese rituals.

The Enduring Cultural Impact

What’s truly fascinating is how these ancient bread traditions continue to influence Chinese cuisine today. The “mantou” remains a popular food in northern China, while “baozi” (filled steamed buns) are enjoyed all over the world. Even “shaobing,” the crispy sesame flatbread, is a beloved street food that connects modern-day food culture with its ancient roots.

Wu Dalang’s “炊饼” might not have been the same as the shaobing many people think of today, but it was part of the rich tapestry of Chinese culinary history, reflecting the evolution of food, culture, and language over centuries. Whether it’s steamed buns or sesame cakes, these foods continue to tell the story of China’s history, from the emperors to the common folk.

As we enjoy these ancient treats today, we can appreciate the deep cultural and historical significance they carry, reminding us that food is more than just sustenance—it’s a window into the past.