The Bustling Morning Markets of Lin’an

In the Southern Song Dynasty capital of Lin’an (modern Hangzhou), mornings began with a symphony of commerce. Vendors selling “delicate and exotic vegetables” filled the streets with their rhythmic calls, creating a lively atmosphere reminiscent of the former Northern Song capital, Bianjing (Kaifeng). Historical records describe this daily ritual as both overwhelming and delightful—a testament to the thriving urban food culture of 12th–13th century China.

Vegetables formed the backbone of Song culinary life. Scholars have identified approximately 40–50 cultivated varieties—a diversity astonishingly similar to modern markets. The extensive list included carrots, turnips, burdock, various cabbages (like the miniature “dwarf yellow” resembling today’s baby bok choy), spinach, lettuce, cilantro, amaranth, and numerous gourds. Mushrooms alone had multiple cultivated types: pine, bamboo, wheat, jade, yellow, purple, and seasonal varieties.

Revolutionary Agricultural Practices

The Song period witnessed groundbreaking horticultural innovations. Bean sprouts first appeared as a deliberate food product during this era. The Tujing Bencao (Illustrated Materia Medica) by Su Song praised mung bean sprouts as “the finest among vegetables.” Detailed cultivation methods appeared in the culinary work Shanjia Qinggong:

> “Soak black beans until sprouted, then grow them in sand-filled containers weighted with boards. After three days, rinse and prepare with oil, salt, vinegar, and spices—wrapped in hemp cakes, they make excellent ‘goose-yellow bean sprouts.'”

Perhaps most remarkably, Song farmers developed early greenhouse technology. During bitter winters when “all things lay frozen,” vendors sold leek shoots and other greens grown using manure’s natural heat—an ancient form of season-extending cultivation. The Southern Song further refined this into huangya (yellow sprouts):

> “After winter solstice, cover large vegetables with straw. Remove decayed leaves to reveal yellow-white sprouts—hence the name.”

Northern capitals like Bianjing relied on cellared vegetables, but southern Lin’an’s markets maintained fresh produce year-round thanks to these proto-greenhouse methods.

The Rise of Vegetarian Cuisine

This vegetable abundance spawned specialized vegetarian restaurants—a culinary first in Chinese cities. As the gastronomic writer notes:

> “Without plentiful vegetables, an independent vegetarian market could never have emerged.”

Menus likely featured meat substitutes using wheat gluten (developed earlier in Buddhist monasteries) alongside creative preparations of the era’s diverse produce. This vegetarian dining culture reflected both Buddhist influences and a sophisticated urban palate.

Beverages: The “Fragrant Drink” Revolution

Song people, much like modern diners, enjoyed beverages with meals. The Qingming Shanghe Tu (Along the River During Qingming Festival) painting depicts a drinks stall advertising xiangyinzi—”fragrant beverages.”

These fell into three categories:

1. Tang (decoctions) – Herbal infusions
2. Shushui (“cooked water”) – Medicinal teas
3. Liangshui (“cool water”) – Refreshing summer drinks

The Shilin Guangji encyclopedia records preparation methods:

> “In summer, pour boiling water into vessels, add ingredients (like aged osmanthus or roasted perilla), and seal for maximum fragrance.”

Popular varieties included:
– Osmanthus flower tea
– Eaglewood infusion
– Perilla drink
– Cardamom brew

Poet Li Qingzhao, in her later years, wrote of drinking cardamom shushui instead of tea due to poor health. Other regional specialties emerged, like a particularly fragrant bamboo-leaf infusion from Xin’an.

Commercial Beverage Culture

By the Southern Song, beverage vending had become sophisticated. The Dongjing Meng Hua Lu (Dreams of Splendor of the Eastern Capital) describes Kaifeng’s summer scenes:

> “At every intersection and bridge, vendors with blue sunshades sell ‘ice-snow cool water’ and lychee syrup from street-side stalls.”

Hangzhou’s markets offered even greater variety according to Wulin Jiu Shi (Old Events in Wulin):

> “Sweet bean soup, coconut wine, deer pear syrup, sour plum drink, ginger-honey water, bitter herbal infusions, and snow-bubbled plum blossom wine…”

Teahouses adapted seasonally—selling warm spice teas in winter and chilled floral infusions in summer. The custom dictated serving tea upon guests’ arrival and beverages at departure, as noted in Pingzhou Ketan:

> “Contemporary etiquette: serve tea when guests come; offer tang when they leave.”

Preserving and Innovating

Song culinary technology addressed both seasons’ extremes:

Winter Solutions
– “Kongming bowls” (double-walled vessels with hot water chambers) kept food warm
– “Foot warmers” (metal bottles filled with hot water) heated beds
– Late-night vendors sold hot soups to officials returning from night duties

Summer Innovations
– Mechanical water-powered fans (“fan carts”) cooled wealthy households
– Elaborate ice trade provided summer refrigeration
– Possible early ice cream (“milk sugar real snow”) precursors
– Potential use of saltpeter for artificial ice (though evidence remains debated)

Physicians like Chen Zhi warned against overindulgence in summer iced drinks—suggesting their popularity caused seasonal digestive complaints.

Legacy of Song Foodways

The Song Dynasty’s culinary achievements represent a watershed in Chinese gastronomy:

1. Urban Food Systems – Specialized markets, professional vendors, and diverse dining establishments created a prototype of modern urban food culture.

2. Agricultural Innovation – Season-extending techniques and selective cultivation dramatically expanded available ingredients.

3. Commercial Beverage Industry – From medicinal teas to recreational drinks, Song establishments pioneered concepts still seen in modern tea shops and juice bars.

4. Technological Solutions – Both high-end (mechanical fans) and everyday (thermal cookware) inventions addressed environmental challenges.

When modern diners enjoy bean sprouts, bok choy, or seasonal specialty beverages, they partake in a culinary legacy profoundly shaped by Song Dynasty innovations—a testament to how this remarkable period transformed Chinese daily life. The echoes of Lin’an’s bustling markets still resonate in today’s vibrant food cultures across East Asia.