A Diplomatic Departure from Turpan

The morning air hung crisp over the desert oasis as Commissioner Lin Zexu completed his final preparations for departure. Having spent five productive days in Turpan attending to official correspondence and cultural obligations, the seasoned administrator now prepared to continue his journey through China’s western territories. The date was the twenty-fifth of the first lunar month, and the local military and civil officials had gathered to bid farewell to the distinguished traveler over breakfast.

Lin’s caravan departed Turpan as the morning sun began warming the clay-brick structures of the city. The day’s journey would cover approximately one hundred thirty li, a substantial distance through arid terrain. His destination was Toksun, where the local magistrate Fu Sheng had arranged for dinner preparations in advance. This thoughtful gesture demonstrated the respect commanded by Lin throughout the region, where his reputation as a principled administrator preceded him.

The significance of Toksun as a commercial hub became immediately apparent to the traveling party. As the final major settlement before entering regions where red copper coins served as the primary currency, the town bustled with economic activity. Travelers and merchants alike utilized Toksun’s services to exchange their currency, creating a vibrant atmosphere that contrasted with the sparse desert landscapes surrounding the settlement.

The Toksun Calligraphy Sessions

Commissioner Lin’s stay in Toksun extended to two days, though this delay was not part of his original itinerary. During his earlier stop in Urumqi, numerous admirers had requested samples of his calligraphy—a art form for which he was justly celebrated. The demands had been so numerous that he had been unable to fulfill all requests before his departure.

Now in Toksun, Lin dedicated himself to completing these outstanding commissions. The physical toll of this artistic labor was substantial, with the commissioner utilizing over fifty sheets of paper in the process. The intensive writing sessions left him with aching shoulders and back pain, testament to the physical demands of traditional Chinese calligraphy when practiced at length. This episode reveals not only Lin’s dedication to cultural obligations but also the importance of calligraphy as a tool of diplomacy and social bonding in Qing official circles.

Into the Wilderness: The Obra Valley Passage

On the twenty-eighth day, after a morning meal, Commissioner Lin bid farewell to Huang Mian, the official overseeing reclamation efforts at Ilalik, whose headquarters were conveniently located in Toksun. The parting marked the beginning of the journey’s most challenging segment as the caravan turned southward into the formidable Obra Valley.

The topography transformed dramatically as they entered the mountain pass. Sheer stone cliffs rose abruptly on both sides of the narrow path, their dark, almost black surfaces creating an imposing atmosphere. The journey through this rugged terrain was acoustically distinctive, with the crunching of wheels over sand and stone producing a constant rumbling that echoed between the canyon walls.

After approximately seventy li of difficult travel, the party reached the Obra military post. The station’s location within the deep gorge contributed to an atmosphere of profound isolation. The harsh environment offered minimal comforts, with just two small shops that provided virtually nothing worth purchasing. The spartan conditions highlighted the challenges of maintaining imperial presence in these remote regions.

Navigating Perilous Terrain

The following day’s journey continued westward through the Obra Valley, presenting even greater challenges than the previous leg. The path wound unpredictably, rising and falling through dramatic elevation changes. The narrow passage forced travelers between steep rock faces while the roadway itself consisted primarily of stone fragments that made for treacherous footing.

Frequently, massive boulders obstructed the path entirely, requiring the collective effort of the entire traveling party to maneuver the carriages over these obstacles. Local accounts described the heightened dangers during summer months when seasonal waters flooded the canyon, creating a deadly torrent between the narrow cliffs. Historical records indicated occasional drownings of unfortunate travelers caught in these flash floods. Commissioner Lin’s party benefited from their winter timing, avoiding this particular hazard during the dry season.

After covering another seventy li by midday, the caravan reached the Korlak military post. With the next viable stopping point located at an impractical distance, the party settled in for the night at this modest outpost.

The Long March to Kumux

Recognizing the need to cover an exceptional distance of one hundred thirty li, Commissioner Lin ordered an exceptionally early departure, with the caravan setting out before dawn. The initial twenty li continued through mountain gorges until they emerged from the dark stone mountains that had dominated the landscape for days.

After thirty li, the terrain began to transform noticeably. The dark stone formations gave way to ochre and yellow earthen hills, and the path softened to packed earth. The auditory landscape changed accordingly, with the grating sound of wheels on stone replaced by the quieter crunch of earth and gravel.

By lunchtime, the party reached a place called Mulberry Garden, whose name promised more than the location delivered. Only two withered mulberry trees remained, with a single small shop operating beside the road. The establishment offered steamed buns and noodles at inflated prices, taking advantage of the location’s monopoly on provisions. The travelers consumed their noodles outdoors before continuing their journey.

The improved road conditions allowed for better progress, and by mid-afternoon they had reached their destination at Kumux. This settlement offered several houses and small shops, with the military post proving relatively spacious and featuring clear water—a valuable commodity in the arid region. Here, Commissioner Lin encountered representatives sent by Quan Qing, the Minister of Karashar, who had dispatched a welcoming party including fifteen horses for Lin’s use. Characteristically principled, Lin politely but firmly declined the offer of the horses.

Arrival at the Black City

Over the next three days, the caravan covered more than three hundred li westward, arriving at Karashar on the fifth day of the second lunar month. The name Karashar, meaning “Black City” in the Uyghur language, evoked the region’s ancient history as part of the former Yanci kingdom. Following the suppression of the Dzungar rebellion during the Qianlong era, the Qing government had established a modest walled settlement measuring less than two li in circumference.

Quan Qing, along with three local officials and a military commander, greeted Lin outside the city walls and extended an invitation for the commissioner to reside within the government compound during his stay. Conscious of the approaching spring thaw and the consequent urgency of his mission, Lin expressed his desire to depart for Kucha the following day to begin land surveys.

Quan Qing advised a brief delay, explaining that Chang Qing, the newly appointed Acting Minister of Karashar, would arrive the following day. Proper transfer of responsibilities between the two officials needed to occur before Quan Qing could depart with Lin for Kucha.

The Agricultural Assessment

Chang Qing arrived in Karashar as scheduled. A member of the Manchu Bordered Blue Banner, Chang Qing’s official position was Minister of Kucha, where throughout the previous year he had supervised land reclamation and irrigation projects. The court had initially recalled him to the capital, but following the appointment of Quan Qing to collaborate with Lin Zexu on surveying southern territories, Chang Qing had been reassigned as Acting Minister of Karashar.

Commissioner Lin seized the opportunity to consult with Chang Qing regarding reclamation efforts in Kucha. According to Chang Qing’s report, approximately sixty-eight thousand mu of potentially arable land had been identified in the Kucha region. While the soil itself was reportedly fertile, years of neglect had resulted in dense overgrowth of red willows and deep-rooted grasses that required complete removal before successful cultivation could occur. Chang Qing had already arranged for clearing operations before his departure from Kucha.

Lin, demonstrating his methodical approach to governance, inquired specifically about water resources—the critical factor determining agricultural viability in the arid region. “Irrigation is the foremost requirement for agricultural settlements,” Lin noted. “Does the newly reclaimed land in Kucha have accessible water sources?”

“Certainly,” Chang Qing responded. “The Weigan River, which originates in the Tianshan Mountains, flows through Kucha territory. Through personal financial contributions, I supervised the excavation of an irrigation canal extending over one hundred twenty li, supplemented by three branch canals each exceeding twenty li in length. All construction was completed by the tenth month of last year. I personally inspected the system and conducted water tests—the channels flow freely and vigorously, completely adequate for irrigating all sixty-eight thousand mu of reclaimed land.”

Lin expressed satisfaction with this report. “With fertile soil and reliable irrigation, successful cultivation seems assured. Who do you propose should work this land?”

Chang Qing revealed a complication in the implementation. “I submitted a memorial to the court recommending that the land be allocated exclusively to Muslim families for cultivation, but this proposal did not align with the court’s intentions.”

Lin clarified the imperial perspective. “The court’s concern revolves around potential complications arising from assigning land exclusively to Muslim families. Whether such concerns are justified, and who would be most appropriate to work the land, constitutes the central purpose of my investigation with Quan Qing. I would value your assessment.”

Chang Qing presented the practical realities of demographic distribution. “Unless we abandon plans for reclamation entirely, we have little alternative to assigning the land to Muslim families. The Han population in Kucha is negligible—just six or seven merchants, none with families, who travel frequently for trade. How could such a transient population possibly commit to cultivating wasteland?”

Lin nodded in recognition. “This aligns closely with the conclusions that Quan Qing and I had anticipated.”

Crossing the River: A Symbolic Transition

After accompanying Chang Qing for the evening meal, Commissioner Lin took advantage of the remaining daylight to advance his journey. Understanding that the route to Kucha would require overnight stays at military posts, he departed the city and crossed the Kaidu River, establishing his quarters at the southern bank military station.

This river crossing represented both a geographical and symbolic transition in Lin’s mission. Having gathered essential information from local officials, he now moved closer to the heart of his investigation—the practical implementation of agricultural policy in China’s western frontier. The physical journey through challenging terrain mirrored the administrative challenges facing Qing governance in these distant territories, where practical realities often complicated theoretical policies devised in the distant capital.

Commissioner Lin’s meticulous documentation of his travels provides modern historians with invaluable insights into Qing administration, frontier conditions, and the practical challenges of empire-building in Central Asia. His observations reveal a sophisticated understanding of the delicate balance between central authority and local implementation that characterized successful governance in the diverse regions of the Qing empire.