The Journey Begins: Xuanzang’s Arrival in India
After enduring immense hardships, the renowned Chinese Buddhist monk Xuanzang finally reached India—not the modern geopolitical entity, but the ancient land steeped in spiritual significance. His first stop was the small kingdom of Lampaka, a place noted even in Ptolemy’s Geography. However, Xuanzang’s impressions were far from favorable. He described its people as short in stature, fond of singing, yet cowardly and deceitful. Disappointed, he swiftly moved on to his next destination: Nagarahara, home to the sacred city of Hilo.
Hilo City: The Sanctuary of Buddha’s Relics
Hilo City, known in ancient Chinese texts as the “City of Buddha’s Parietal Bone,” was a major pilgrimage site for Buddhist devotees. Long before Xuanzang, other Chinese monks like Faxian, Song Yun, and Huichao had journeyed here to venerate the sacred relics. Among the treasures housed in Hilo were fragments of Buddha’s skull, his robes, and personal belongings, but the most revered was the parietal bone—considered the highest-ranking relic in Buddhism.
The relic was guarded under an elaborate system. According to Faxian’s records, eight noble families were entrusted with its protection, each holding a seal. The relic could only be displayed after all eight verified their seals each morning, accompanied by music, royal attendance, and floral offerings. This ritual underscored the bone’s sanctity and the deep devotion it inspired.
The Miracle of the “Seal of Fortune”
Xuanzang participated in a unique ritual called “taking the seal,” where devotees sought omens by placing a silk-wrapped ball of incense powder on the relic. The impressions left on the powder were interpreted as signs of fortune. When Xuanzang performed the ritual, he received an image of the Bodhi tree—symbolizing supreme wisdom and enlightenment—a rare and auspicious sign that deeply moved the attending monks. His companions, two young novices, also received favorable omens: one an image of the Buddha, the other a lotus.
The Legend of the Buddha’s Shadow Cave
Beyond the relics, Hilo City was famed for the Buddha’s Shadow Cave, a site shrouded in mysticism. Located on a treacherous mountain path frequented by bandits, the cave was said to reveal Buddha’s shadow to the devout. Undeterred by danger, Xuanzang ventured forth with only an elderly guide and a brave child. Along the way, they encountered five bandits who, instead of robbing him, joined his pilgrimage after learning of his mission.
Inside the cave, Xuanzang prayed fervently. After hundreds of prostrations, the shadow of Buddha—seated on a lotus, flanked by bodhisattvas—appeared on the wall. Overwhelmed, Xuanzang called the others to witness the miracle. Though the shadow vanished when torches were brought, it reappeared when they left. In the end, even the bandits were converted, discarding their weapons to receive monastic vows.
Scholars like Japanese researcher Ashikaga Yoshikazu later studied the cave, attributing the phenomenon to light filtering through cracks and reflecting on moist walls—a natural yet awe-inspiring spectacle that aligned with Xuanzang’s account.
Gandhara: The Crossroads of Buddhist Art
Continuing south, Xuanzang reached Gandhara, the “Land of Fragrance,” a region pivotal in Buddhist history. Once a flourishing center under Greek influence after Alexander the Great’s conquests, Gandhara gave birth to Greco-Buddhist art, blending Hellenistic styles with Indian spirituality. This fusion led to the first anthropomorphic depictions of Buddha, breaking earlier traditions that avoided idolatry.
By Xuanzang’s time, Gandhara lay in ruins—its monasteries crumbling, its populace dwindling. Yet its legacy endured. He visited the Great Stupa of Kanishka and the monastery where legendary scholars like Parshva (the “Rib Elder”) and the master Vasubandhu had composed seminal texts like the Abhidharma Mahāvibhāṣā Śāstra, later translated by Xuanzang himself.
The Tales of Parshva and Vasubandhu
Parshva earned his name through an extraordinary vow: to never lie down until mastering Buddhist scriptures. At 80, he became a monk and, through sheer determination, achieved enlightenment without resting his ribs on a mat. Vasubandhu, his disciple, defended his teacher’s teachings posthumously, cementing their place in Buddhist lore.
Another figure, the charismatic Master Ghosaka, famously debated 100 scholars at once. After a minor slip in logic, he bit off his tongue in protest, leaving his student Vasubandhu to vindicate him years later. These stories, recorded by Xuanzang, highlight Gandhara’s intellectual vibrancy.
Legacy and Modern Reflections
Xuanzang’s accounts of Hilo City and Gandhara offer more than historical records; they reveal the interconnectedness of cultures and the enduring power of faith. The Greco-Buddhist art of Gandhara influenced Chinese cave temples like Dunhuang, while rituals like the “seal of fortune” reflect the universal human quest for meaning.
Today, these sites remind us of a time when borders were crossed not for conquest, but for wisdom—a lesson as relevant now as in Xuanzang’s era. His journey, etched in texts like The Great Tang Records on the Western Regions, continues to inspire pilgrims and scholars alike, bridging past and present through the shared pursuit of enlightenment.
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Next: Follow Xuanzang’s path to the enigmatic lands of Bamiyan and beyond in “Buddhist Wonders of the Silk Road.”